MAKNA ESTETIKA KULIT BAGI REMAJA PERKOTAAN:ANALISIS WACANA KRITIS TENTANG STANDAR KECANTIKAN DAN PENGGUNAAN KOSMETIK
THE AESTHETIC SIGNIFICANCE OF SKIN FOR URBAN ADOLESCENTS: A CRITICAL DISCOURSE ANALYSIS OF BEAUTY STANDARDS AND COSMETIC USE
Abstract
Penelitian ini menganalisis makna estetika kulit bagi remaja perkotaan di Kota Medan dengan menggunakan pendekatan Analisis Wacana Kritis model Norman Fairclough. Melalui wawancara mendalam terhadap 15 remaja perempuan, observasi partisipatif, dan dokumentasi media sosial, penelitian mengungkap bahwa standar kecantikan kulit remaja Medan didominasi oleh media sosial (93,3%) dan beauty influencer (80%), dengan ideal kulit putih (80%) dan glass skin (73,3%) sebagai konstruksi hegemonik. Praktik konsumsi kosmetik bersifat konsumtif (46,7% membeli 3-4 produk per bulan) dan sarat makna simbolik sebagai peningkat kepercayaan diri (86,7%) dan penanda status sosial. Dampak psikologis yang ditimbulkan meliputi tekanan lingkungan (80%), perbandingan sosial (73,3%), kecemasan berlebihan (60%), dan body shaming (53,3%). Namun demikian, ditemukan pula strategi negosiasi seperti pemilihan produk terdaftar BPOM (46,7%) dan pembatasan konsumsi media sosial (33,3%). Penelitian ini menyimpulkan bahwa estetika kulit remaja Medan merupakan medan pertarungan simbolik antara hegemoni industri kecantikan digital dan upaya remaja mempertahankan agensi serta penerimaan diri.
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27. Saraswati, L. A. (2010). Cosmopolitan whiteness: The effects and affects of skin-whitening advertisements in a transnational women’s magazine in Indonesia. Meridians, 10(2), 15–41.
28. Tiggemann, M., & Slater, A. (2013). NetGirls: The Internet, Facebook, and body image concern in adolescent girls. International Journal of Eating Disorders, 46(6), 630–633. doi: 10.1002/eat.22141
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2. Badan Pengawas Obat dan Makanan Republik Indonesia. (2025). Kepala BPOM rilis daftar kosmetik mengandung bahan berbahaya dan/atau dilarang hasil intensifikasi pengawasan di awal tahun 2025. Badan POM RI.
3. Bourdieu, P. (1984). Distinction: A social critique of the judgement of taste. Harvard University Press.
4. Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2021). Thematic analysis: A practical guide. SAGE Publications.
5. Cash, T. F., & Smolak, L. (Eds.). (2011). Body image: A handbook of science, practice, and prevention (2nd ed.). Guilford Press.
6. Cohen, R., Fardouly, J., Newton-John, T., & Slater, A. (2019). #BoPo on Instagram: An experimental investigation of the effects of viewing body positive content on young women’s mood and body image. New Media & Society, 21(7), 1546–1564. doi: 10.1177/1461444819826530
7. Cohen, R., Newton-John, T., & Slater, A. (2017). The relationship between Facebook and Instagram appearance-focused activities and body image concerns in young women. Body Image, 23, 183–187. doi: 10.1016/j.bodyim.2017.10.002
8. Creswell, J. W., & Poth, C. N. (2018). Qualitative inquiry and research design: Choosing among five approaches (4th ed.). SAGE Publications.
9. Fairclough, N. (1992). Discourse and social change. Polity Press.
10. Fairclough, N. (1995). Critical discourse analysis: The critical study of language. Longman.
11. Fairclough, N. (2003). Analysing discourse: Textual analysis for social research. Routledge.
12. Fardouly, J., Diedrichs, P. C., Vartanian, L. R., & Halliwell, E. (2015). Social comparisons on social media: The impact of Facebook on young women’s body image concerns and mood. Body Image, 13, 38–45. doi: 10.1016/j.bodyim.2014.12.002
13. Festinger, L. (1954). A theory of social comparison processes. Human Relations, 7(2), 117–140. doi: 10.1177/001872675400700202
14. Gill, R. (2007). Postfeminist media culture: Elements of a sensibility. European Journal of Cultural Studies, 10(2), 147–166. doi: 10.1177/1367549407075898
15. Glenn, E. N. (2008). Yearning for lightness: Transnational circuits in the marketing and consumption of skin lighteners. Gender & Society, 22(3), 281–302. doi: 10.1177/0891243208316089
16. Grogan, S. (2021). Body image: Understanding body dissatisfaction in men, women and children (4th ed.). Routledge.
17. Holland, G., & Tiggemann, M. (2016). A systematic review of the impact of social networking sites on body image and disordered eating outcomes. Body Image, 17, 100–110. doi: 10.1016/j.bodyim.2016.02.008
18. Hunter, M. L. (2011). Buying racial capital: Skin-bleaching and cosmetic surgery in a globalized world. The Journal of Pan African Studies, 4(4), 142–164.
19. Jones, D. C. (2001). Social comparison and body image: Attractiveness comparisons to models and peers among adolescent girls and boys. Sex Roles, 45, 645–664. doi: 10.1023/A:1014815725852
20. Kim, Y. J. (2021). The influence of Korean beauty culture on global beauty trends: Focusing on K-beauty and social media. Journal of Cultural Industry Studies, 21(3), 1–12.
21. Lee, H. E., Taniguchi, E., Modica, A., & Park, H. (2013). Effects of witnessing fat talk on body satisfaction and psychological well-being: A cross-cultural comparison of Korea and the United States. Social Behavior and Personality, 41(8), 1279–1295. doi: 10.2224/sbp.2013.41.8.1279
22. McLean, S. A., Paxton, S. J., Wertheim, E. H., & Masters, J. (2015). Photoshopping the selfie: Self photo editing and photo investment are associated with body dissatisfaction in adolescent girls. International Journal of Eating Disorders, 48(8), 1132–1140. doi: 10.1002/eat.22449
23. O’Brien, B. C., Harris, I. B., Beckman, T. J., Reed, D. A., & Cook, D. A. (2014). Standards for reporting qualitative research: A synthesis of recommendations. Academic Medicine, 89(9), 1245–1251. doi: 10.1097/ACM.0000000000000388
24. Perloff, R. M. (2014). Social media effects on young women’s body image concerns: Theoretical perspectives and an agenda for research. Sex Roles, 71, 363–377. doi: 10.1007/s11199-014-0384-6
25. Rodgers, R. F., & Melioli, T. (2016). The relationship between body image concerns, eating disorders and Internet use, part I: A review of empirical support. Adolescent Research Review, 1, 95–119. doi: 10.1007/s40894-015-0016-6
26. Rounsefell, K., Gibson, S., McLean, S., Blair, M., Molenaar, A., Brennan, L., Truby, H., & McCaffrey, T. A. (2020). Social media, body image and food choices in healthy young adults: A mixed methods systematic review. Nutrition & Dietetics, 77(1), 19–40. doi: 10.1111/1747-0080.12581
27. Saraswati, L. A. (2010). Cosmopolitan whiteness: The effects and affects of skin-whitening advertisements in a transnational women’s magazine in Indonesia. Meridians, 10(2), 15–41.
28. Tiggemann, M., & Slater, A. (2013). NetGirls: The Internet, Facebook, and body image concern in adolescent girls. International Journal of Eating Disorders, 46(6), 630–633. doi: 10.1002/eat.22141
29. Van Dijk, T. A. (2008). Discourse and power. Palgrave Macmillan.
30. Wolf, N. (1991). The beauty myth: How images of beauty are used against women. William Morrow and Company.
Published
2026-07-22
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Artikel Penelitian
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